Sunday, June 30, 2013

NFCT Days 8 and 9

Hey all!

Can we just tell you how much we LOVE Vermont? We have been so, so fortunate in many ways since we got here.

Day 8
We left Baker's Acres at 6:50 am after a rejuvenating night. We ran 6 miles of whitewater between Kent Falls and Treadwell. We were a bit nervous putting in right below Kent Falls Dam - the water was moving quickly and with all the recent rain, the rapids were larger than we anticipated. We jumped in the boat quickly and had a fun, quick, and safe ride to Treadwell dam. While eating lunch just past Treadwell dam, we had many passersby advise us not to run the Saranac from here until Lake Champlain. We were nervous about the short sections of whitewater between dams and heard that the rapids through Plattsburgh were huge. So, we took to the road for a 4 mile portage. This brought us into Plattsburgh where we resupplied at a natural foods co-op. We put back in at the end of the Saranac River and paddled across Champlain to Cumberland Bay State Park. We hit the hay early in anticipation of a 4 am start tomorrow.
25 miles

 Day 9
The first leg of our Lake Champlain crossing. We started from Cumberland Bay State Park at 5:15 and made our way around Cumberland Head. There was a slight breeze and it was incredibly foggy. We were nervous about crossing the ferry route, but it was easy to wait for one to pull out and then quickly cross. We debated whether to make the first crossing towards the Gut because of the fog. As the fog dissipated, we made our move. It was calm and we enjoyed all the beautiful homes on South Hero Island.  We were hankering for a cup of coffee, so we made a quick pit stop at Hero's Welcome for a muffin, coffee, and a trip to the NFCT kiosk. After this, we made our way to Carry Bay and the Alburgh Passage, the longer but more protected route to North Hero. We made it to North Hero State Park by 1 pm, only to find that the park has been closed for a few years. We decided to take a gamble and camp there anyhow. The sun was so needed and we spent the afternoon drying our wet gear.

 And then...we met Buzz and Laurie. Shortly after arriving at North Hero,  Buzz and Laurie came by on a walk with their two dogs, Buffer and Trinnie. They invited us over for beer. We quickly accepted.

Now, hours later, we've been fed a delicious turkey dinner, had some beer, and lots of laughs. Here are some photos from the past few days.

Can't wait to cross the second half of Champlain tomorrow and make our way to the Missisquoi river, our first leg of upstream travel.


Stopped for muffins today, so yummy!



The culvert you can usually paddle through to get to Carry Bay. With all this rain, we had to carry up and over!

More days like this please, Mother Nature

Planning tomorrow's route
Us and our wonderful friends, Buzz and Laurie, THANK YOU SO MUCH!





Friday, June 28, 2013

NFCT: Days 6 and 7

Hey again!

After we left Saranac Lake, we paddled about 10 miles on beautiful, winding Saranac River. We ended our night with a portage around permanent rapids and camped at the bottom. We were excited about the riverside campsite that Dennis at St Regis told us about, but lo and behold, the campsite was occupied by three unsavory characters (and their unburied poop). 

Besides the poop, no harm was done and we slept well. It seems that even though we had intended for this to be a rest day, we just couldn't stay off the water.
Ended up doing 20 miles.


Camping at the bottom of Permanent Rapids

Day 6

Today we were again surprised by the kindness of total strangers. It was a big day that began with a few ponds and short portages and ended with the portage of all portages. After getting  off union falls pond, we sat down for some lunch to fuel us for an eight mile portage around some rapids that we decided not to run for fear of hurting the boat. As we ate lunch, we chatted with a man who offered to drive us and our boat the distance into town. We declined his offer (because we are stubborn). He promised to check on us when he was finished boating.

So we began our long walk. It was pleasant to stretch our legs for a few miles. Then it was tedious. But sure enough, our friend showed up. And while we again declined his offer for a ride, we were so grateful for the ice cold Gatorade he gave us.

As we got closer to Clayburg, a man saw the canoe and came to greet us. He told us about a good campsite near the separator rapids just downstream and warned us of the coming storm. We thanked him and moved quickly to launch our boat back into the Saranac. After a short distance on gravely class 1 rapids, we felt we were approaching the portage for the separator rapids, but saw no signage. We followed our guts and pulled off. Sure enough, after a little scouting we found both the rapids and our campsite. We locked the boat just upstream of the campsite and worked fast to set up a tarp before the rain. As we were setting up, the rain started. Oh, and Brian's foot found the second human
poo of the day. Guess we can't blame those other guys. We ended up paddling an walking about 20 miles.

Today (day 7)
5 am : pouring rain. Went back to bed.
6 am: pouring rain. Back to bed again.
7 am : still sleeping. And raining.
8 am: guess what? More rain.

At this point we decide to wait out the storm until the afternoon. The cold weather combined with a lack of campsites precipitated this decision. And you know what? It was the right one. For the first time in a while, we had our first truly lazy morning. We drank coffee, lay in our sleeping bags, and giggled a lot. And if it takes some rain to force us to slow down for a morning, then we'll take it. Plus we're hopeful that the rain will bury the pesky rocks downstream and make our travel that much easier.


Cooking in the rain
   
We did end up paddling a bit today, about 8 miles. One portage and some
fun whitewater. We took hot showers and have clean clothes! Many thanks to Bakers Acres for all of their kindness. So much to be thankful for.




Wednesday, June 26, 2013

NFCT: Days 1-5

Hey!

We're writing to you from a cozy library in Saranac Lake, about 85 miles from Old Forge, where we started. We had the great fortune of hearing about St. Regis Canoe Outfitters, a group of awesome folks who let us store our gear while we gobbled down a hot lunch in town. Soon we'll head back there to get the 411 on the river conditions downstream and take showers because...we stink.

But let's start from the beginning.

Day 1
After saying goodbye to Keith and Leslie, we headed 14 miles through the Fulton Chain of Lakes to a beautiful campsite on 7th Lake. We had great weather and loved picking our favorite cabins and cottages along the shores.
14 miles
In Old Forge, at the start!

Day 2
Woke up and headed out before 7:30 am. Fun times pulling the canoe over beaver dams and checking out pitcher plants in Browns Tract Inlet. Raquette Lake was gorgeous, although strong winds made it our first nervous moment. Had our first taste of non-wheelable portages. (Ugh) We ended our night at the start of Long Lake
24 miles.
Browns Tract Inlet
Navigating beaver dams

Day 3
Left the campsite at 7 am and spent most of the day paddling Long Lake. We improved our portaging techniques from the day before and had a much happier and successful portage experience. Tried sailing...fun, but needs refinement! Had our first big thunderstorm. Thank goodness for our tarp. Camped at the Raquette Falls lean-to.
21 miles.
NFCT kiosk on Long Lake
Our first sailing attempt

Day 4
Got a late start today because we chatted with Gary, the caretaker at Raquette Falls and saw his strip canoe (beautiful!). Got our first taste of upstream paddling in Stony Creek and were rewarded at the end with front row seats to an osprey catching a fish right out of the water! We braved 3 thunderstorms on the Saranac Lakes and while waiting for the second to pass, found ourselves directly under a bald eagle! During the third storm, we hunkered down for the night.
18 miles.
Lunching on the Saranac Lakes

After a rainstorm on Middle Saranac Lake. Just saw another bald eagle!

Day 5 (Today)
Made it to Saranac Lake. Currently debating where to camp for the night. 9 miles so far.

So far, it's been a blast. We're a little soggy, but our boat's in one piece and we still really like each other. We've been so pleased to meet nice people along the way from canoeists on the lake who've read our blog to a friendly guy in the library who invited us to stay with him and his family if we needed a dry place. Thanks to all!

Locks


Operating the locks



Friday, June 21, 2013

Boat Building: The final countdown

The day is finally here! We're wrapping up the boat building chapter of our adventure and beginning the 740 mile journey on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Today we'll pack and organize our belongings and hit the road to Old Forge, NY. We'll be on the water until we finish, likely around six weeks.

We have many things to look forward to...loons calling on the lake, moose sightings, afternoon swims in crystal clear lakes, our Canadian sojourn, whitewater adrenaline, and so much more we can't yet imagine. We're a mixture of nervous and excited about testing our craft in pebbly streams and long portages, but we're ready!

There are a handful of people without whom this adventure would be impossible. Many thanks and lots of love to Keith and Leslie Quarrier for mentoring us through the boat building process, preparing the basswood strips before we got back from California, and for helping us every single day. Thanks to Seth Quarrier and the Miller family for their amazing contributions to our boat - without them we'd have no seats or gunwales! Also to Gil Gilpatrick, who published the design for our 18.5' E.M. White guide canoe in his book, Building a Strip Canoe. (Maybe we'll see you on the Allagash, Gil!)

Check out the photos of our finished canoe! Stay tuned for pictures and updates from the Adirondacks.
Routing the mermaid inlay


A satisfied artist


Using the spokeshave to round the pole
Varnishing the inside
Drying outside
Varnishing paddles

Close up of the griffin inlay
Seats are in, paddles are done!
Testing the waters
She tracks beautifully and is so fast!
Sigh. We're in love
With a little padding and some practice, it'll feel great!
Lookin' good!

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Boat Building: Day 8

We're reaching the home stretch here at the shop!

Yesterday we sanded the outside of the boat, shaped paddles, finished seats, created "baby" thwarts (see photos!), and put on the outside gunwales. With each step, it gets stronger and more beautiful. We can't wait to hit the water.

Stay tuned for pictures of our real life, really shiny, really finished canoe!

Finishing the caning process

Looks like it'll hold!

All that's left is to create the permanent pegs


(Still) sick of sanding
Drilling and screwing in the gunwales
Smoothing out the paddles

Our classy deck plate! Plus, a "baby" thwart which we hope will help with carries. 

Feast your eyes on that!


Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Boat Building: Days 6 and 7

We're back from a brief hiatus!

On Monday we decided we needed a change of scenery, so we headed to the big city (aka Keene, NH) to pick up some necessary supplies for our trip. We loaded up on rope, tarps, waterproofing material, and other odds and ends for first aid and boat repair kits.

Yesterday we were feeling refreshed and got back on track. It was an exciting day in the shop...our trusty steed is really, REALLY starting to look like a boat!

Brian and Keith worked on the gunwales, the yoke and thwarts, and the deck plates while Leslie and I (Allie) worked on caning the seats.

Here are some photos of our progress:

Caning...
Cleaning up the gunwales
Getting ready to put one gunwale on
Ready for portage?
More caning...
Yoke in place
Deck in place, hopefully the arrow will point us in the right direction
Enough said.