After we left Rangeley we paddled across Haley Pond and started our search for the portage trail to Route 16. After paddling the end of the lake we could find no trail. We took out at a private dock and hoped that no one would mind. Once on Route 16, we had a 4 mile walk to our campsite at the start of the S. Branch of the Dead River. The campsite was little more than a pull off on the side of the road. We fell asleep to the sounds of logging trucks speeding past us.
20 miles
Day 25:
We woke early to beat the traffic on Route 16. We decided it would be easiest to walk the road because of low water on the S. Branch of the Dead. Within the first 5 minutes it was VERY clear that walking 14 miles was not a safe option. Logging trucks seemed exempt from following the speed limit. Also, no shoulder. We decided that we had better try paddling. We got on the S. Branch and began paddling. At first it seemed like the right choice. But around a few bends the water disappeared and many fallen logs crossed our path. We decided this route was no better. We turned around and paddled back upstream to our starting point. We did the thing we were dreading. We called the local outfitters, Ecopelagicon. They graciously came and picked us up. We felt weird skipping a section of the trail, but felt that our safety, along with the boat's, would have been at risk if we had chosen either route. We were dropped off at Flagstaff Lake where we enjoyed a beautiful paddle. We had this gigantic lake all to ourselves, as usual. Though we frequently wonder why folks aren't outdoors at the peak of the summer, we didn't complain too much. We passed islands, calling loons, and the flooded village of Flagstaff. Around one corner a bull moose was spotted eating. We floated by watching him, reveling in our first moose spotting! We camped at the far end of the lake on an island just before the dam. Around dinner time we heard beating wings out on the lake. We went out on the point to investigate. It appeared to be two loons fighting. They locked beaks and hit each other with their wings. What a wild sight! After some internet investigation, we learned that loons are quite territorial and sometimes fight to the death over territory.
20 miles paddled and 19 miles skipped
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| Some of the obstacles on the S. Branch of the Dead River |
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| Swatting flies and feeling sorry for ourselves |
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| Bull grazes in Flagstaff Lake |
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| A primo campsite on Flagstaff |
Day 26:
We started the day with a short portage around Flagstaff dam and put in at the Big Eddy campsite. Once on the Dead River the paddling was easy. We soon reached the Grand Falls carry and took out at the high water portage trail. There was no sign for this portage, but we saw rapids downstream and decided to investigate. Once in the woods, the signage improved. However, trail is a strong word for the bushwack that followed! We carried the first portion and on our way back to retrieve more gear, we found a ground nest of bees. After making a mad dash away from them and feeling sorry for our stings, we continued our bushwack. Eventually we hit a dirt track where we could wheel the rest of the way. It appeared to be a trail maintained by the Maine Huts and Trails. We hiked back up to the falls and ate lunch. Though the portage was tough, the sight of Grand Falls was worth it! Reluctantly, we buckled up for our last upstream section, Spencer Stream. The stream was easy to find but going did not look good. We scouted for the dirt track that was marked on the map to no avail. Upstream was our only option here. We started around noon and hoped to finish the 7 miles of Spencer Stream by late evening. We soon realized that this wasn't happening. The going was slow. There wasn't enough water to paddle upstream, so we dragged the boat upstream, careful not to slip on the rocks. Occasionally we could paddle 3 or 4 strokes, but they would then be followed by another shallow section. We were beat and in low spirits. We finally made it to Little Spencer Stream in just under 3 hours. We dragged the boat until 5:30 when we could go no further. We found a somewhat flat piece of ground and set up the tent. Soon the thunderstorm and rain found us, which brought spirits to an all time low. With a soggy tent we fell asleep.
11 miles
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| Grand Falls, Dead River |
Day 27:
Man was it was hard to start the day. Spirits were still low, our gear was soggy, and we weren't 100% positive we were even on the correct stream. Two hours in we came to the dead waters...what a relief! This marked the end of our upstream paddling and confirmed that we were in fact in the right place. With no official portage trail around the dam, we improvised by dragging the canoe over a steep rock ledge. Once the gear and canoe were in the water and we paddled around the dam booms, we felt the greatest sense of accomplishment and relief. The upstream was done! Our mood did a 360 and we again felt that anything was possible. We set a goal for Jackman to splurge on a Motel one last time. We flew across the lakes, walked the 4 mile portage and were excited to put into the Moose River. The scenery was amazing and before we knew it we were pulling into Jackman at 7 pm. Beer and pizza never tasted so good.
28 miles
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| Our combo hotel/taxidermist. Yep. |
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| Done with upstream and loving life! |
200 miles left and the end date should be the 27th. We're looking forward to what Maine has in store for us.
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